Italy part 2
Disclaimer: We visited places where pictures were not allowed, so I included photos from the internet here.
From Naples, our travels took us to Rome next. We left our place and walked to the tram station, where we caught a tram to the central station in Naples. There, we get on a much nicer train for more extended travel. It has cushioned seats and air conditioning, it's much quieter, and you can hardly feel it move. Everything about it is so much nicer than the metro trams. Since we are going to Rome, we will see more beautiful Italian countryside. It's another sunny day, and we follow the coast for several miles before turning northeast toward Rome. We made a few stops before doing so and could see the sparkling sea from the last one. It is easy to get used to traveling by train.
When we arrived at the main terminal in Rome, we needed to catch two metro trains to get to the neighborhood where we were staying. These trams were underground, and it was a different experience. We must go down a few flights of stairs to catch the next train. The first tram stop looked like a typical subway station. Since we have all our luggage, we are on alert for pickpockets and theft attempts.
On top of that, Rome is the most crowded place we've been to, and we have large backpacks on our backs and smaller ones in front. So, that sometimes makes it challenging to move around on the tram. Getting on was a little tricky because of how much room we took up. I was behind everyone and started getting pushed so people behind me could board. During these travel times, I frequently pat my pockets to ensure everything is still there. I do this soon after boarding the train and notice the zipper on one of my pockets is halfway opened. Nothing was taken, but someone tried. I think it was when we were pushing to get on.
At our next stop, we descend more flights of stairs and wonder how far underground we are. The next tram resembles an airport train that takes you to different terminals. We wait behind doors that don't open until the tram has stopped. It's funny to think we've traveled on four different types of trains in one day. We arrive at our final stop and take the escalators up this time. Emerging from the subway, we are next to an open square for the neighborhood. I already like the feel of this place. Thankfully, the walk to our place is pretty close. When we arrive, we need to buzz our host at the gate of the building. We go through the gate and walk into a small outdoor court between two apartment buildings. He meets us at the door for the one we're staying in, and we follow him upstairs. We tour the place and find out he lives next door. It was about 2:30, and there was one place we wanted to visit in Rome before the day ended. We are about six stops from Rome city central on the underground metro, which is pretty close, so we head back into town.
The one place we went to was the Basilica of San Clement, a church that was built on top of two previous churches. They had a tour where you could go down to see what was left. Unfortunately, pictures and videos weren't allowed. The main church was built in the 12th century, the older church below was built in 313 A.D., and below it was a Roman pagan temple erected in the late 1st century A.D. You could see the old walls and columns as you descended. Nothing ornate was left behind because the bottom two layers were underwater for hundreds of years. You could make out carvings on a partial ceiling, but nothing colorful. Going to the bottom level, we felt the air get cooler and moist. There was a room with a monument to the sun god Mithra and long stone benches on either side. We could walk from here to several other empty rooms. In a few of these rooms, we could hear water running and saw a natural spring flowing under the temple. Coming up from the bottom level, we emerged in the main church. It was another stunningly decorated chapel. From there, we caught a bus to the metro and went back to our place.
Since we returned at dinner time, we decided to eat out and chose a local pizzeria. What a great experience that turned out to be. The small restaurant was called Pizzeria Broadway. It had a good selection of pizzas, chicken, and sides like rice, vegetables, etc. The pizzas were large rectangles, and he asked you what size slice you wanted. He would weigh the slice, and that was your price. It came out to great prices for how much you got. The donuts were huge and delicious. They were simple, just sprinkled with large sugar crystals, but the dough was divine as well. The owner, Mario, was one of the nicest people I've ever met. We dined in, and he gave us some donuts for free. He was easy to talk to and was genuinely interested in us as we were in him. Everything we ate was great, and his company made it all the better. I would move to this area just to eat here frequently and become his friend.
After dinner, we walked around the corner to a grocery store. We planned on returning to the pizzeria, so we got dinner for two nights and other things. Since the store was in a different direction from the subway, we saw more of the neighborhood. Even though it was block after block of apartment buildings with businesses on the bottom floor or just apartment buildings, it didn't all look the same. We passed several stores, and it was the kind of busy a small community would be, different from a city. The energy in the air felt fun and comfortable. We got the groceries, unpacked, and settled in for the night. It was an eventful day, but it was a good one.
The next day we explored the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, and the Trevi Fountain. We got on a metro to central Rome and then caught a bus that let us off near the Roman Forum entrance. There was a line for tickets, and since it was sunny, we were glad it was morning and not later in the day. A few guys were walking up and down the line selling water bottles that we had to keep refusing. People had to go through security to enter, which meant a bag scanner and metal detector. Tanya asked our oldest if he had his pocket knife on him, and he did. The boys and I usually carried one, but we talked about how we couldn't at several places like this. Now we got worried about them confiscating it. I had a backpack with metal water bottles and lunch, so we put it in the bottom and hoped for the best. Thankfully, they didn't say anything, so we left it there for the day.
Exploring the Roman Forum was fantastic from both a homeschooling and personal perspective. Several placards explained what buildings used to be and the history of different parts of the Forum. What I loved most was walking among these ruins and touching the history. We walked to one end, and you could see it laid out before you. You could take a few different paths depending on where you enter. We walked back the way we came a little and took a different way that led to the bathrooms, then more to see. One building had a ramp inside to get an excellent panoramic view of most of the Forum. Currently, Rome is higher in elevation than the Forum, and government buildings surround one corner of the ruins. Even those buildings were hundreds of years old. It is both interesting and ironic that the Forum was the center of Roman government and politics, and the area is still for Italy.
After walking back into the Forum, we explored the ruins of a temple and another temple inside a church and walked around the grounds. We went up the side near the Colosseum and explored an area that used to be a palace. This part is Palatine Hill. It was pretty extensive and had a great overlook of Rome on one side. Below this viewpoint was the Circus Maximus, an arena where chariot races and other venues are held. Next to the palace remains is the Palatine Museum. We had a couple of other places to go today, so we didn't go inside. After taking in the views, we descended the hill and exited the Forum next to an old church, which we had to step in and see. From here, we made our way down to the Colosseum. Crowds of people and tour groups surrounded it, and we hoped we saw people simply gathering around and not long lines. It was nearly high noon, and we barely found a spot with shade. We sat here and had lunch.
Tanya pre-purchased tickets for herself and me to guarantee an entrance time. The kids were free but needed to be added to our ticket time slot, so we had to stand in the ticket line to do this. After that, we went to the line to get into the Colosseum. Surprisingly, the line was nearly nonexistent. There were three checkpoints to get in: the first that scanned our tickets, a second that rechecked our tickets, and then security. We had to do another metal detector and baggage scan. We all got through except our oldest, who had to walk through four times; it was hilarious. He kept pulling more things out of his pockets he didn't need to at the Roman Forum checkpoint. Finally, he got through, and we went to the walkway around the arena. Once again, it's a great place to touch history and talk to the kids about the significance of where they are. We went around the bottom and up to the second level to look at it from there. After a bunch of pictures, we took a bathroom break. There was very little shade walking around the arena, so we enjoyed the cooler, shaded area under the ground-level porticoes.
It's time to go to our next stop. We caught a bus from the Colosseum over to the area where the Trevi Fountain was. The location was busy, but walking through the streets was fun. We get to the fountain, which, of course, is covered in people like ants on a doughnut. I didn't expect anything less, and we remind the kids to be aware of pickpockets. Before we get to the fountain, Tanya pulls one and two eurocent coins for us to toss. Walking over to the fountain, we needed to hold onto each other as the crowd got tighter. We reach the steps and look for an opening at the fountain's edge. One opens up, and we take our place. As per tradition, we grab our coins, face away from the fountain, and throw them over our shoulders into the water. Another American family offered to take our pictures, so we swapped picture-taking with them. There is a drinking fountain at the end of the sitting area, so I refill water bottles.
Leaving here, we pass by a store called Captain Candy. It's full of gummies and chocolate-covered things in barrels with a pirate theme, so we check it out. Everything is sold by weight, so you grab a bag and put whatever you want inside. This is a new experience for us, so we tried it out and helped the kids get a few things, not a whole bag. Despite this being a chain store, it was good candy. We step across the street to try and share our new goodies. Ironically, we were going to a popular gelato place, but this stop wouldn't change that. We get there, and there is a long line. It's called Giolitti, and it was delicious. If the line hadn't been so long, we would have gone back for more. They have an arsenal of 150 flavors, but only some at a time. I saw rice as a flavor and wondered about that.
There was another highly rated gelateria not too far away that we wouldn't be near the next day. We walk over to it so as not to lose out on another excellent food experience. Along the way, we walked by the Pantheon and stopped at Piazza Navona to admire the large square with a beautiful fountain in the center. Someone's golden labrador broke loose and jumped into the fountain. It was pretty funny, and everyone cheered for the dog. Some of us got a little wet when it got out and shook. The second gelateria we went to was Fatamorgana. It was absolutely delicious as well. The family was split between which one we thought was better. After a full day of exploring and gelato, we return to our place. We catch a bus to the metro station and get on the train to our stop. We get back with enough time to relax before dinner is cooked.
Our Rome adventure for the next day is the Vatican and the museum and crypt of the Capuchin Friars. We know how busy the Vatican can get, so we get started early to avoid standing in long lines during the day's heat. A line formed when we arrived, but it wasn't very long, and we waited about thirty minutes to go through security. My poor son gets caught up in the metal detector again. He only had to go through three times. He brought less stuff this time and had less in his pockets to empty. After this line, we go to St. Peter's Basilica and get in line for tickets. There are two lines for tickets, and we get in the one that doesn't include the elevator to go up to the roof. We're young, capable, and a little cheap, so we'll walk up all 551 steps. We would have waited 2-3 times longer for the elevator anyway, so it was worth it.
Halfway up, we arrive at the roof of the church. There is a small gift shop and some nice views. We rest and take some pictures. The dome is next. Coming early really helped with the crowds. It was still crowded going up, at the top, and coming down, BUT it wasn't as bad as it could get. Going up the dome was a fun experience if you aren't claustrophobic. The stairs and space are much smaller since you walk between the inner and outer domes. Before going up, we go inside and walk around the dome's base. Everyone looks tiny walking around on the floor, and you get to appreciate the sheer size of the dome and the painting covering the ceiling. From here, we go up the small stairs between the inner and outer domes. We have to lean to one side as we ascend because of the curvature of the walls. Finally, we make it to the top of the dome. There are wonderful panoramic views of Rome from here. It helped that it was a sunny day.
After taking in the views of Rome, we go down from the dome back to ground level. I was glad to see how impressed the kids were with how big the inside was when we initially entered the church. Now, we walk around and see one high, massive portico after another. We wander around, taking it all in for a while. Then, we see a line that goes under the church to where former popes are buried. We get in line and walk through. Technically, it's a crypt, but it's not old and creepy. Everything is kept up here since it's still in use. The walls and floor are white stone and marble. There are several sarcophagi of past popes with inscriptions and stature representations of them lying down. We exit into a shaded courtyard with a large drinking fountain. It was a good place to rest, rehydrate, and refill water bottles.
We didn't realize we would exit the church after the walk through the crypt. So, we went back to the front to go back inside. There was one more thing we wanted to see: the Pieta. This is a statue of Mary holding the body of Christ after being crucified. Michelangelo sculpted it when he was 23, and it's considered one of his best works. Tanya and I wanted the kids to see how amazing and detailed a work of stone could be. After we saw the statue, we left, got a family picture in front of the basilica, and started toward our next stop. Not far outside the Vatican, we stopped in a shady spot by a building and decided to have lunch. Sitting here and watching the people going up and down the street was fun. We talked about everything we had just seen and experienced. Another family bucket list item checked off for Tanya and I.
Our next stop was the museum and crypt of the Capuchin friars. The crypt was a place where the bones of over 3,000 friars were decoratively arranged in six rooms. They don't allow pictures or videos of the crypt, but I'm sure these memories will stay with me. We catch a bus to that part of town and walk a short distance to the church where this is. The entrance fee covers an audio tour through the museum before you go into the crypt if you want. There was an audio tour for adults and a slightly different one for children. The one for children had the kids look for certain things around the museum. The museum included paintings, relics, pictures, and items relating to the Capuchin friars. It was nice to get some historical context for this new place.
After the museum, we went into the crypt. What a place! The rooms were named after the prominent types of bones used to decorate the interior. Skeletons were wearing their friar robes while standing, and others were lying in an open tomb of bones. Most skeletons were all bones, but some were partially mummified. You could see it on their face and hands. There were intricate designs on the walls and ceilings, mostly made of the same type of bones. Some looked like a coat of arms, and others were ornate arrangements. None of the bones were painted or bleached. One of the rooms had dirt on the floor, and it was deep enough to bury the bones. The dirt was brought over from Jerusalem. This was done so the friars could have their remains buried in the soil of the Holy Land. The current friars would rotate bones buried there, so all the previous friars would have this chance. The shape of the rooms was similar to cutting a domed room in half. We walked down a hall facing the open rooms. A place like this could evoke all sorts of emotions, but I found it fascinating.
We went into the church after the crypt; of course, it was gorgeous. This was our last sightseeing stop today, so we walked up the street to a good gelateria. We enjoyed our gelato and went to a bus stop. This part of town is charming, and we really like it. The buildings are colorful, the streets and sidewalks are cleaner, and everything looks nicer. This made the wait for the bus easy. For some reason, this one took a while, but we were enjoying the neighborhood. Our next destination for the day is the Rome temple for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints. We've wanted to see it since it opened in 2019. Our bus stops next to the temple site, which was great since we walked a lot today. The temple and the grounds were beautiful and peaceful.
We wouldn't wear church clothes all day, so we brought them. Walking over to the visitor center, we enjoyed the different fauna all around. There are plants we don't see in the U.S., and they are beautifully arranged. Inside the visitor's center is a large statue of Christ with his arms open. The scars on his hands and feet are visible. Behind him are twelve statues of the original apostles. These are in a room with two-story tall windows facing them, and the white of the statues shines. It also has a quaint, traditional Italian home replica, which is very fitting. We go to the bathrooms and get changed into our church clothes. Our youngest isn't old enough to go in, so she will wait in the visitor center. She has her Kindle to read but was excited to have female missionaries to converse with. She loves girl time since she is "just surrounded" by boys at home. The rest of us go in and join another family for proxy baptisms. It was another wonderful family experience. After we were done, we changed into our regular clothes and said goodbye to everyone we talked to so we could catch our return bus.
We hop on the bus and take in the city sites as we ride back to the metro station. An interesting thing about the station is that they put a timeline on the wall as you go further down. It was in Italian, but they wrote about things discovered and the time frame from which they would have been. So, the metro station was built over 2,000 years deep in historical soil. We wanted to go back to Pizzeria Broadway one more time before leaving, so that's where we ate dinner. It was another good time with great food and company. Our middle son got a picture with Mario so we can better remember our friend. We say goodbye and return to our place to pack our things to leave the next morning. We thoroughly enjoyed Rome.
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